Projecting as a Climbing Training Strategy: How to Use Hard Routes to Get Stronger

Projecting as a Climbing Training Strategy: How to Use Hard Routes to Get Stronger

Most climbers have a route or boulder problem that seems just beyond their current ability. You can do some of the moves. You might even get painfully close to the top. But linking everything together feels impossible.

That is where projecting comes in.

Projecting means repeatedly working on a climb that is currently too difficult for you to complete in one attempt. Instead of simply trying it over and over until exhaustion takes over, effective projecting involves breaking the climb down, understanding why you are failing, practising individual sections, refining your technique and eventually putting the entire sequence together.

Done properly, projecting can be one of the most effective climbing-specific training methods available.

What Is Projecting in Climbing?

A climbing project is usually a route or boulder problem close to, or slightly above, your current maximum ability.

You might be able to complete individual moves but struggle to link them. Perhaps one crux move feels almost impossible. Or maybe you can do every move but cannot complete the climb because you become too fatigued.

Projecting turns these weaknesses into training opportunities.

Instead of asking:

“Can I climb this?”

you start asking:

“What is stopping me from climbing this?”

That change in mindset is important because the answer might be finger strength, body positioning, footwork, power, endurance, confidence, route reading or simply an inefficient sequence.

A good project exposes your limitations very efficiently.


Why Projecting Is Such Effective Training

Many climbing exercises isolate one physical quality. Hangboarding develops finger strength. Campus training can develop explosive pulling power. Strength training can improve general force production.

Projecting is different because it combines physical and technical demands on an actual climb.

1. It develops climbing-specific strength

Hard climbing forces you to generate strength in positions that are difficult to reproduce perfectly with conventional exercises.

You may need to hold a poor edge while rotating your hip, maintain tension through your feet, pull dynamically from an awkward position or control your body through a sequence of small holds.

These movements develop strength within the context in which climbers actually need it.

2. It improves technique

A move that initially feels impossible can sometimes become surprisingly manageable after discovering a better foot position or changing your body angle.

Projecting encourages experimentation.

Try the heel hook.

Move the foot higher.

Turn the hip.

Use a drop knee.

Change the hand sequence.

Climb faster through one section and slower through another.

Over multiple attempts, you begin learning how small technical changes affect movement efficiency.

3. It teaches you to identify weaknesses

Suppose you repeatedly fall from a 20 mm edge.

Is your finger strength insufficient?

Maybe.

But perhaps your foot is positioned badly, your hips are too far from the wall, or you are gripping harder than necessary because the previous sequence has already exhausted you.

Projecting teaches you to diagnose climbing problems rather than simply blaming strength.

4. It improves movement efficiency

Once you have worked a project repeatedly, the sequence often starts feeling easier even though the holds have not changed.

That is movement efficiency.

You remember the footholds. You know where to accelerate. You know which holds allow you to relax your grip. You know where you can shake out and recover.

Eventually you stop solving every move individually and begin climbing the route as a sequence.

5. It builds confidence on difficult moves

Hard moves can initially feel intimidating, particularly dynamic movements, poor footholds or positions where falling feels uncomfortable.

Repeated exposure in a controlled environment helps make those situations familiar.

The goal is not reckless commitment. It is becoming comfortable attempting difficult movement while using appropriate spotting, pads or rope systems.


How to Choose a Good Project

Not every impossible-looking climb is a useful project.

Ideally, choose something slightly beyond your current level rather than dramatically beyond it.

A useful project should contain movements that are difficult but potentially achievable.

For example, if you normally climb around V3, a challenging V3 or suitable V4 might make an excellent project. Jumping directly onto a V7 may provide plenty of character development, but considerably less useful training.

The exact grade matters less than the individual climb.

A good training project should challenge one or more areas you want to improve, such as:

  • finger strength
  • body tension
  • footwork
  • dynamic movement
  • small holds
  • overhangs
  • slopers
  • endurance
  • route reading
  • confidence committing to difficult moves

Occasionally choose projects that expose your weaknesses rather than selecting only climbs that suit your strengths.

That uncomfortable slab you keep avoiding might be telling you something.


The Best Approach to Projecting

Projecting works best when it becomes deliberate practice rather than repeated attempts.

Step 1: Study the climb first

Before pulling onto the wall, inspect the route.

Identify likely hand sequences, footholds, resting positions and potential cruxes.

For bouldering, consider watching another climber attempt the problem. Their beta may not work perfectly for your height or strengths, but it can reveal movement possibilities you had not considered.

Step 2: Make an initial attempt

Try the climb without overanalysing everything.

This gives you useful information about where the real difficulty lies.

Sometimes the move that looked hardest from the ground turns out to be relatively easy while an innocent-looking transition becomes the actual crux.

Step 3: Break the climb into sections

Once you identify the difficult moves, stop treating every attempt as a complete send attempt.

Work the difficult section independently whenever possible.

For a boulder, this might mean practising the final three moves rather than repeatedly starting from the beginning.

On a route, you might work individual sections while resting on the rope between attempts.

This saves energy and gives you more high-quality practice on the movements that actually need improvement.

Step 4: Experiment with beta

If a move repeatedly fails, change something.

Try different footholds, hip positions, grip orientations or movement speeds.

Ask yourself:

Why did I fall?

That question is much more useful than:

Why am I not strong enough?

Sometimes strength really is the limitation. But climbers are remarkably talented at trying to solve technical problems by pulling harder.

Step 5: Rest properly

This is one of the most overlooked parts of projecting.

If you are attempting near-maximal moves, you need sufficient recovery between serious attempts.

For hard bouldering, resting around 3–5 minutes between high-intensity attempts is often appropriate, and particularly demanding attempts may justify even longer recovery.

Projecting while exhausted changes the training stimulus. Instead of practising maximal movement, you start practising climbing badly while tired.

There is a place for fatigue training. A limit-projecting session usually is not it.

Step 6: Link sections together

Once individual moves become achievable, begin connecting them.

You might first link moves 1–4, then 3–6, then eventually complete the entire sequence.

This stage develops the ability to reproduce difficult movement under increasing fatigue.

Step 7: Start making serious send attempts

When you know the sequence and can complete the individual sections, begin attempting the full climb.

At this stage, details matter.

Remember where you need to breathe, where you can relax your grip, which moves require commitment and where unnecessary hesitation wastes energy.


How Often Should You Project?

For most recreational climbers, one or two dedicated projecting sessions per week is plenty.

Beginners may benefit more from accumulating movement experience across many different climbs rather than spending large amounts of time projecting one extremely difficult problem.

Intermediate and advanced climbers can generally make greater use of dedicated projecting.

A simple weekly structure could look like this:

Day Training Focus
Day 1 Projecting / limit climbing
Day 2 Strength or hangboard training
Day 3 Rest or active recovery
Day 4 Volume / technique climbing
Day 5 Strength training
Day 6 Projecting or outdoor climbing
Day 7 Rest / recovery

The exact schedule should depend on your training history, age, recovery capacity and other strength training.

If you already perform significant fingerboard, campus-board or heavy pulling work, adding multiple hard projecting sessions can quickly create excessive finger, elbow and shoulder loading.

More training is only useful when you can recover from it.


How Long Should a Projecting Session Be?

Quality matters more than duration.

Around 60–90 minutes of focused hard climbing can provide an excellent training stimulus once warm-up time is excluded.

A productive session might contain relatively few genuinely hard attempts.

That is perfectly acceptable.

Ten high-quality attempts with adequate recovery can be considerably more useful than thirty increasingly desperate attempts made while fatigued.

Stop when your performance clearly deteriorates.

If holds that felt manageable early in the session suddenly feel impossible, your fingers are opening unexpectedly, or your movement becomes uncontrolled, you are probably no longer getting the intended training benefit.


Projecting vs Other Climbing Training Methods

Projecting should not replace every other type of training. It works best as part of a broader programme.

Projecting vs Volume Climbing

Volume climbing involves completing many routes or boulders below your maximum level.

Volume is excellent for developing movement vocabulary, technique, general climbing fitness and confidence.

Projecting provides much greater exposure to movements near your physical limit.

Think of the difference this way:

Volume develops breadth. Projecting develops depth.

Both are valuable.

Projecting vs Hangboarding

Hangboarding allows finger strength to be trained in a highly measurable and controlled way.

You can adjust hold depth, weight, duration and recovery.

Projecting also develops finger strength, but the stimulus is less controlled because body position, footholds and movement affect the load.

For climbers whose finger strength is clearly limiting progress, structured hangboarding can therefore complement projecting very well.

Projecting vs Campus Board Training

Campus training emphasises explosive upper-body and finger power, usually with limited or no assistance from the feet.

It can be highly demanding and is generally better suited to experienced climbers with an appropriate strength base.

Projecting develops power in a more climbing-specific environment because the climber still needs to coordinate hands, feet, hips and body tension.

Projecting vs ARC / Endurance Training

ARC-style climbing and other endurance methods use sustained, relatively easy climbing to improve aerobic capacity and the ability to recover while climbing.

Projecting sits near the opposite end of the intensity spectrum.

A climber preparing for long routes may therefore benefit from combining both approaches: projecting for difficult sequences and endurance training for the ability to keep climbing.

Projecting vs General Strength Training

Pull-ups, rows, presses, deadlifts and other resistance exercises can build useful physical capacity and muscular balance.

But becoming stronger in the gym does not automatically teach you how to apply that strength efficiently on the wall.

Projecting provides the bridge between physical strength and climbing movement.


What to Remember When Projecting

A few principles make projecting much more productive.

Warm up properly. Do not move directly from easy climbing to maximum finger loading. Gradually increase difficulty and intensity.

Rest between attempts. Hard projecting is primarily high-intensity training. Give your muscles and fingers enough time to recover.

Analyse failures. Try to understand why you fell rather than immediately jumping back onto the wall.

Change your beta. Repeating exactly the same failed movement indefinitely is persistence, but it is not necessarily effective practice.

Use video. Recording an attempt can reveal hip position, inefficient footwork and unnecessary movements that are difficult to notice while climbing.

Track progress beyond sends. Doing one previously impossible move is progress. Linking two sections is progress. Finding better beta is progress.

Protect your fingers. Projecting places substantial stress on finger tendons and pulleys, particularly on small edges and pockets. Stop if you experience sharp or unusual pain.

Do not turn every session into a test. Constantly climbing at your absolute limit can eventually reduce movement quality and increase injury risk.


Should You Keep Working the Same Project?

Absolutely, within reason.

One of the biggest benefits of projecting is returning to a climb after your nervous system and muscles have recovered.

A move that seemed impossible on Tuesday may suddenly work on Saturday.

But there is also value in changing projects occasionally.

If you have spent many sessions making virtually no progress, consider temporarily leaving the climb and training the weakness it exposed.

Perhaps the project showed that you need stronger fingers, better lock-off strength, improved flexibility or more experience on slopers.

Train the limitation, then return to the project.

The climb effectively becomes your test.


A Balanced Approach to Climbing Training

Projecting works particularly well when combined with other training methods rather than used exclusively.

A balanced programme might include:

Projecting for limit movement, problem solving and climbing-specific strength.

Volume climbing for technique and movement experience.

Hangboarding for targeted finger strength.

Strength training for pulling strength, body tension and general resilience.

Endurance climbing for sustained performance and recovery.

Rest so your body can actually adapt to all this carefully organised suffering.

The proportions should change depending on your goal.

If your goal is breaking into a harder bouldering grade, projecting and limit climbing may receive greater emphasis.

If you are preparing for long outdoor routes, endurance and route-specific projecting may become more important.


Final Thoughts

Projecting is more than repeatedly trying a climb until you eventually succeed.

Used deliberately, it is a powerful training method that teaches you to analyse movement, experiment with technique, apply strength efficiently and perform difficult sequences near your physical limit.

Choose projects that are challenging but realistic. Break them into manageable sections. Rest properly between attempts. Analyse why you fall. Experiment with different solutions and track small improvements rather than judging every session by whether you sent the climb.

Most importantly, combine projecting with other forms of climbing and strength training.

Your project is not simply a climb you cannot do yet.

It is information.

Every failed attempt tells you something about your climbing. Learn to identify what the route is asking from you, train that quality, and eventually the moves that once seemed impossible can become part of your normal climbing ability.

Train smart. Climb strong. Keep progressing.

Mountain Rocks Australia — Making Climbers Stronger.

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